Fazata sent the first Bulgarian 9a
Ivaylov Radktov alias Fazata sale il PRIMO 9a Bulgaro!
Il nostro atleta Ivaylo Radkov alias "Fazata" libera il primo 9a Bulgaro.
Our athlete Ivaylo Radkov alias "Fazata" sent the first Bulgarian 9a.
Interview: Toni Lonobile
A little interview just to know who is our very strong and humble athlete Fazata!
Just read what he think about climbing in Bulgary.
Hello Fazata, introduce yourself (who are you? How old are you ?, when do you start climbing?) ... and first of all what means Fazata?
My name is Ivaylo Radkov but only my parents call me Ivo. In the climbing community I am known as Fazata which is a nickname for my childhood.
How many walls indoor are there are in Bulgaria?
Funny question? Actually Bulgaria has an old tradition in sport climbing and organizing world cup competitions dating from 1989 in Veliko Tarnovo (which was the last world cup on real rocks). And although we are small country and a tiny climbing community we have the results on the world competitions and rock level that we are proud.
What are the famous places in Bulgaria to climb?
After Petzl Roc Trip in Bulgaria the most famous area now is Karlukovo`s Cave, Prohodna. But we also really like climbing in the old school area Lakatnik, Vratsa, Dryanovo, Veliko tyrnovo. For bouldering the best place is Rila Monastery where the status is National Park and we really love and take care about the place and construct our ethics with the nature.
Where and how do you train?
In the winter when the weather is not so good for rocks I am training in NSA climbing gym Sofia. Where I am also a coach in the club that has 200 kids climbing every month.
What is the importance of climbing in Bulgaria? have you got a federation wich helps you?
Yes, we have a federation BCMF (Bulgaria Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which helps us a lot and take care about climbing.
Have You ever tried hard routes in other countries (Italy, France, Spain, etc ..), if so, what have you sent?
Usually twice a year I try to go climbing abroad. I enjoy all types of climbing. My best for routes out of Bulgaria is White Zombie 8c in Baltzoa, Spain and for boulder is Confessions 8B Swizz.
Tell us about the 9a route you’ve done (boulder sections, stamina? ... else?)
I felt it harder then everyrthing I have tried and climbed. First part 30 m. 8c, then second part a 10 m. roof for 8c+ and 5 m. 7B+ boulder for top out the crazy cave.
Have you got some sponsors? They help you in your activities?
I am sponsored by Wild Climb also the local distributor for Bulgaria Petzl and Beal “PIK 3000” helps me a lot. And from three years I am working on my brushes “FAZA” which turns my best sponsor :)
The route you’ve sent will surely give a new goal for others Bulgarian climbers ... What do you expect from climbing in Romania? how do you see the future of climbing in Bulgaria? ... your ideas to help climbing growing.
I like Romania :) and I`ve been climbing there and have many friends. Really good sand stones close Piatra Niamtsa, maybe a bit better than Fontainebleau. I am trying to climb as much harder as it is possible but on the other side me and my friends in the NSA club are working a lot with kids. They are the future!
All the pics by Yanne Golev